Monday, April 30, 2012




Okay, well here I freaking am ... for the very first time.   Hello, Los Angeles, California. 

American Airlines flight 25 saw to it, seat 26F - window seat - I gave up the aisle seat in row 13 for it, and woo hoo! - nobody ended up in the middle seat!  Hooray!  For a gal such as I who loathes flying and it's ridiculously tight confines ...



twas rather like winning the freaking lottery.  Somehow the three year old boy directly behind me only kicked my seat a total of one full set of times. 

Very, very long and hungry flight, since the bastards didn't even offer food, and I had not a lot of pre-flight time inside the Logan terminal, nor could I find anyplace that sold pre-packaged food for some reason.  The Jet Blue terminal has loads of Wolfgang Puck salads and the like, but not the AA terminal.  Anyway, on the plane, there was one very brief mention up front of food 'for purchase', (is this phrase somehow less offensive than 'for sale'?), then ... nothing.  I had assumed they would come around at some point and ask if people were ready for the food, if they were hungry, offer menus, or perhaps mention what was on offer, yet ... nothing.  6.5 hours of yogurt peanuts and ritz crackers ensued.  Finally towards the end, when the guy next to me ordered them, I caved and bought what he was getting - a bag of spiced nuts ...



which I hadn't realized until I was handed the credit card receipt (since airlines laughably do not accept cash) set me back $5.29!  To boot, they were not at all spectactular.  Something about the sorry brown peppery wannabe glaze stuff just didn't work.

Have to say I guess I simply cannot believe we've arrived at a time when it's acceptable to charge $25 for the storage of one suitcase inside of the cavernous belly of a giant commercial airliner, while at the same time, food is no longer thrown into the mix as a pacifier while you try to make people shoehorned together and hurled through the air a bit less uncomfortable. 

*


Here is a cool little film I took from the plane.  At one point I noticed that adjacent to us was another airplane flying at the same speed and direction, which was kind of cool.  There was a long trail of brown smoke billowing behind it, which wasn't cool.  Later in the flight as I watched, the plane began to close in ours, closer and closer at high speed until it crossed underneath us.  Watch the clip. 

Come on.  Watch it.

*


Here's another film I took - showing the LA mega-sprawl as we approached LAX:



*

One observation, possibility about the difference between west and east coast folks, was that, after the plane stopped at the gate, everyone on board did not then immediately move to stand and stake their claim on a spot in the aisle and bring their luggage down from the overhead compartments, as I have seen done on I believe every single flight I've been on in living memory.  It was only when the plane door opened and the aisle ahead cleared of people that the folks at the middle and back of the plane where I was sitting finally got up to take down their luggage.  Is this perhaps because west coasters are mellower/in less of a hurry vs east coasters?  (Which in actual fact has been proven - in speed of walking, talking, giving directions to strangers and ATM transactions - east coast beats west coast every time.)

*

While waiting for my luggage at the carousel, Chris began telling me, a bit too loudly despite my shushings, about his recent bout with a weird toxic flu, and the not one, but two shots he had to have in each butt cheek, and the sizeable circumference of the needles, and how much it hurt, and people around us were literally craning their necks like we were perverts.   Dang.

*

Okay, so I'm here, the weather's been great - it got to 80 the day I landed and I felt very enclosed and east coast-y in my kahkis and Merrill shoes.

I'm a guest of Christopher and his clarinet and saxaphone playing, NASA Jet Propulsion Lab software engineer girlfriend (really), Janet, in their lovely little freshly painted back guest house, featuring my own private deck, shielded from the neighbors and even from Chris' house by a bank of beautiful, seemingly perpetually blooming high flowering bushes (as early as 5:30am on foggy mornings, the flowers are somehow still fully open) ...



My little hut is complete with a full bath and kitchen with Cuisinart Keurig tea maker thing, microwave, stove, big fridge, etc., and a 60 inch tv.  (Three times the size of my Sony back home.)   The neighborhood is lovely and dead quiet, with lemon trees and steep hills and loads of flowers everywhere and big, dramatic, dry rocky/dusty mountains directly behind us.  The type that burn.  Also, flood.

*

First stop after being picked up at LAX was Eva's Soul Food, which was tasty indeed and featured homemade biscuits and framed photos of a multitude of black icons on it's walls.  Naturally I almost immediately managed to get grease on said kahkis - one of only two pairs of pants I have with me for the entire trip.  (Dian, didn't you forewarn me I would spill something on them?)  Afterwards we headed back to the house, where I attempted to fall down dead of the combination exhaustion/near-migraine, but alas, after two hours, sleep would not come, so up I got for a leisurely neighborhood stroll.  Did I mention we're in the foothills and they are a tad steep?  No matter, it helped muchly, as walking always does, and we ended the day driving up the steepest, twistiest hills behind us (where one house nearest to the end of the road beyond which they won't allow you to build anymore was literally buffered 3 foot high with sandbags.)  I gather that when it rains here, the water, like in Arizona, doesn't get much absorbed by the sandy dry dirt, and hence simply flies down the mountain side, in some cases resulting in those famous mudslides.  It certainly is dry here - I find I have to keep blowing my nose for some reason, as it's not used to the weirdly low humidity, I guess.  I always forget about California that the trees have no bark on them (don't need any), and that the flowers are literally everywhere. 



























Even obscuring 'neighborhood watch' signs:




Big, colorful, and for us back east, exotic things such as Cala lillies and the like, grow will nilly out of the cracks of sidewalks and over dumpsters and shit.  Crazy.  They also have pretty fucked up twisty/gnarly trees.  This one is next door to Chris' house:



*

During a tour of the house, I noticed the room we were in (their office), had a Wonder Woman switch plate.  I recollected to Chris the story about his dad always curiously watching that show alongside young Chris, and same being puzzled, because dad would rag on the rest of his tv watching and call Batman 'Fatman', and such, yet here he was making sure never to miss Lynda Carter in a patriotic corset one piece getup thing.  Hmm.  This is the conversation that thus ensued:

*

Chris:  Little did I know about things such as jiggle back then.

Me:  Oh for fuck's sake, they didn't jiggle.  In men's imaginations, they fucking jiggled.  I'm telling you, there is no way in that outfit they could've jiggled.

Chris, logging into youtube:  Oh ya ??

*

How the hell was I to know there exist literally multiple videos of poor Lynda jogging - in slow-mo - in her Wonder Woman outfit ?  Alongside, at times, her sidekick, Wonder Girl - played, bizarrely enough, by a young Debra Winger.

*

So we ended the day in Chris fashion, watching 70's dynamos Clint Eastwood, George Kennedy and Jack Cassidy in a 1975 bizzaro flick starring (and directed by) Clint as a combination art teacher/hitman/rock climbing enthusiast - none of what I just said was made up - entitled The Eiger Sanction. 





Clint was looking good despite his big clunky, Oscar Goldman-style eyeglasses.  George Kennedy, Mr Trashdaster himself, was exactly Joe Patroni from the Airport films, swilling beer and spewing macho one liners ...

Woman Journalist:  "Tell me, in your opinion do these men climb rocks to prove their manhood, or is it more a matter of compensating for inferiority feelings?"

George:  "Lady, why don't you go get yourself screwed.  It would do you a lot of good."


... and, oddly, having his hands all over Clint all the time for some reason.

*

The first chick Clint bags of the 72 that he does during the film is a black stewardess named, wait for it ... 

Jemimah.  Oh, and her last name?  Brown.  And the seduction scene between these two has Clint making not one, but two rape jokes.  70s attempts at innocent seduction banter, I guess.  Okay, here.  I went and looked it up.  This is from the script:

Jemimah:   You climb?

Clint:  I used to, but I'm retired now.


J:  Maybe you'll climb again someday.

C:  I doubt it.

J:  You never know.  Sometimes people do things they thought they'd never do again.

C:  Like rape, for instance.  I thought I'd given up rape, but I've changed my mind.  You really have beautiful eyes.


Okay??? 

Amazingly, Clint, whose character, an art teacher with the last name Hemlock, so that's Professor Hemlock, was not the most fucked up character in the film.  That title belonged to Jack Cassidy, who played a big, mincing, polyester leisure suit wearing queen carrying around a lapdog actually named "Faggot".  Our first introduction to "Faggot", in fact, is him attempting to hump Clint's lower leg.  Again, not making this up.  Later on, after Clint leaves Jack out in the desert to die of exposure, and the little traitor of a dog hops into Clint's jeep as he speeds away rather than stand by his owner, Clint gives the dog to some waitress, but not before warning her that the dog might try to rape her.  (??)  This was a true non-stop WTF sort of film pretty much the whole way through.

*

Okay, to bed at 10:30pm - which was 1:30am to me, and for some reason wide awake before 6am.  No matter.  Got up and it was coolish (60) and cloudy, and as I went for the first long walk on my own down big steep Briggs Ave, it was actually a bit cold without my coat. 

I went searching for a McDonald's or Wendy's as I was dying for an egg mcmuffin type thing, and Siri could not find one in the immediate vicinity, so after walking several blocks the wrong way, I turned around on Foothills Ave and found a Starbucks and a grocery store.

Chris works from home part of the time, and at 10am knocked on my door inquiring about breakfast, so we headed off to his old rental house down this really cute, private cul de sac at the hidden back end of a street about 10 blocks from here, only to pick up his tall, goodlooking, blue eyed, long blonde haired, reddish-bearded, ie perfect, actor friend, Curtis.  Some weeks back, Chris, in response to me asking him to arrange a meeting for me with Ewan McGregor, or a suitable blonde alternative, said he only knew one actor, and sent me Curtis' picture asking if he would do.  I guess I assumed it was a joke, but here we were picking the guy up. 

So the three of us went to a local haunt, Magpie's Grill, and it was like the most LA breakfast you could imagine, hearing about the inside of the acting/production world, which this guy has been involved in since the 90's, stuff like that communities' opinions of working under people like Ridley Scott and James Cameron (total control freak assholes) vs Clint Eastwood (totally leaves you alone to do your own thing), what you get out of acting itself, coming to LA from Oklahoma and doing commercials and stuff.

Interestingly, Curtis said that a casting agent recently took him aside and strongly suggested that he not shave or cut his hair, because short haired beardless actors are a dime a dozen, and he has a certain look that can be more easily marketed, and in fact, he's had much more acting work since taking her advice.  If all men took this same advice, the world would freaking be a better place.

*

After dropping Curtis back off at his place, who, for the record, is married, to a fellow actor and school teacher, Chris and I headed off for Glendale and downtown LA.  First we stopped at a comic book store featuring the nicest, sweetest owner guy, who knew all of his customers by first name and greeted them as such when they walked in.  This guy was just like, super content, seeming, at his lot in life, and it was so cool.   How often do you meet people like that?  Anyway, while in the store I semi-jokingly asked Chris if there were any gay comics. 

Me:  So, is there such a thing as gay comic books?

Chris, shrugging, disinterested:  Ya, probably.

Me:  I mean, like, with hot, gay content, and stuff.  No lesbians.

Chris then promptly turned and asked the owner guy, much to my embarrassment, because I was sort of kidding, even though I was sort of serious, who proceeded to earnestly scratch his chin and search around for me, and in fact came up with two hardbound books, one, in color, about a Guantanamo prisoner who falls in love with his prison guard ...




It's kind of sweet, no?  And another comic that was in black and white and had too many words for my liking, so I bought the former.  Hoo hoo, this will be fun!

*

Following our comic store visit, we hit amazing 300 acre Forest Lawn cemetery, where allegedly Lucy Ball was buried, but we were informed that she'd actually been moved "back east at some point".  Check out the staggering list of people who are buried here:  Clark Gable, Spencer Tracy, Humphrey Bogart, Mary Pickford, Merle Oberon, Gracie Allen and George Burns, some of the Andrews sisters and Marx Brothers, Joan Blondell, Clara Bow, Stan Laurel, Lon Chaney, George Cukor, Errol Flynn, Walt Disney, WC Fields, Jean Harlow, Carole Lombard, David O Selznick, Red Skelton, Michael Jackson, and Elizabeth Taylor.  I mean, seriously, is that a mind blowing list, or WHAT??  Mind you, except for stumbling upon Stan Laurel's grave (see below), we didn't find out about any of this until we got back home and looked it up.  I guess I'd heard of the place, but had no idea it was this big an old Hollywood deal, I mean, Clara Bow?  Also, the cemetary discourages celebrity seekers and the map they provide at the very big, tall, wrought iron gate only shows you the various sections, such as the Garden of Everlasting Peace.  They don't tell you that's where Spencer Tracy is.

Oddly (imo), the place contained, at first to my disappointment, no actual headstones.  All graves were iron plaques in the grass. 

We pulled in and parked at a pretty brick church, which it turns out is a replica, of all things, for fucking Old North Church in Boston - I mean, seriously, what are the odds? - and walked into the what look like fields of grass, and it was breezy and sunny.  We were apparently in the Armenian wing of the place, because name after name were in what to me seemed indeciperable Greek lettering, but turned out Armenian.  Then there was this amazing, absolutely massive concrete horizontal structure off in the distance, entitled Birth of Liberty ...



That's Chris, in front of the damned thing to give it perspective.  If turned on it's side I swear it would approach 15 storeys.  At first you think it's a colorful painting depicting various images from American history.  The shock is that it turns out to be a fucking mosaic.  Literally what had to be millions of tiny chips intricately pieced together.  Unimaginable, the amount of genuinely painstaking work and patience that had to have taken.  Total rush.

So no Lucy, but as noted, here is Stan Laurel's grave. 


At one point, some of the graves began to have not just names, but images of the deceased person embedded in the iron (what a job that would be) and one woman's images were a tad on the surreal and semi-disturbing side ...


... I mean, jesus.  Chris, with that clear-the-room cackle of his, began pointing and belly-laughing, and there I am shushing him and pleading with him to shut the fuck up ... only to burst out laughing when I saw the thing myself ... the two of us doubled over in spastic fits in the middle of a placid field of graves, all in plain view of a nearby trio of Forest Lawn landscape workers as well as an elderly couple respectfully planting flowers.  Way to offend the locals!

Oh, speaking of which, neglected to mention that the very first thing we did is walk into the Old North Church building, because the front door was open and there was singing and it was really beautiful, and I'm literally reaching into my purse for my Iphone to begin snapping dozens of photos of the interior when Chris stops dead.

Chris:  Wait.  Isn't that a casket?

Me:  Huh? 

Chris:  Holy creeping shit.  This is a funeral.

Sure enough, as I looked in horror, there is an open fucking casket up by the alter.  We'd stumbled our stupid tourist asses right smack dab into the middle of a viewing.  But how were we to know?  There was only about three people there, and no sign outside announcing anything.  Damn.

*

Next was the long, long, long, what felt like 2 hour journey, because Chris refused to let me check a map or run the navigation system, (and btw this is how Chris drives ...



... a tender one-handed touching of the wheel, vs a gripping of it.)

So we drove into downtown LA, through literally:  Koreatown, Little Bangladesh, Filipinotown, and Chinatown - talk about freaking diversity.  One of these neighborhoods contained a garment/textile district because suddenly it was block after block of dozens of five foot high spools of colorful material gathered row upon row on the sidewalks, like something you'd expect to see in a market square in Guatemala. 

Finally we made it to amazing Union Station, where, I was informed by a certain film fanatic, the opening sequence to Bladerunner was filmed ...






This was such a cool, cool, total Maltese Falcon 30's place.  You don't generally equate LA with trains, and yet here the thing has stood all this time.  It was interesting to read that when it was built, 50 buildings in what was then Chinatown had to be razed, the place is so massive.  Also, this area of the city is the oldest part of Los Angeles.

Stupidly, I at one point attempted inside the station to inquire of a scary looking cop guy in an actual flak jacket if his super, super lovely black lab was friendly (and hence, open to being petted), and was told that they try never to let them be friendly, or something like that.  The bastard.  I mean, this dog was so ridiculously sweet and docile looking he just screamed for cuddling, and here they've trained him away from such things.  Horrid pricks.

*

So after we stolled down nearby Olvera Street, a bricked over street which is filled with Mexican cafes and products and doo dads and the like ...




Had some din ...





... then headed back home, but not before trying out the scary, twisty San Gabriel mountain roads.  I was driving by this time because Chris had had two frozen Margaritas, and I was too pooped and slightly freaked to handle the edge-of-the-cliff driving.

On my way to finding a safe turn around spot, there, on the side of the road, were two bicyclists; one, a guy, dressed in normal biking gear and helmet, and one a completely naked, helmeted woman. 

Me:  What the ... what the fuck was that??

Chris:  Holy shit. 

Sure enough, when we turned around and drove by them again, the chick was indeed absolutely and totally buck, stark, raving fucking nude, in public, in full view of anyone driving by, seeing as there really was barely any shoulder and therefore nowhere to hide.  She was standing by her bike and helping her companion with his backpack like it was the most normal thing in the world. 

Ahh, California.  It was all there.  Nudity, mountain biking, helmets.











Friday, April 27, 2012


Okay, April 27th.  Last day sleeping at my house until June 2nd.  I wonder if I'll be a different person on the other end. 

I do.  

And I guess I hope so.

My whole life, I feel like I've been waiting for something big to happen ... and it sort of never has.  It lurks in my mind, this melodramatic notion left over from childhood when I thought/fantasized that I was being watched/followed.  I recall walking home from St Col's up Chestnut Hill Ave., and having this running internal 3rd person narrative going, of everything I was doing, as if it was a documentary.  Yes, a weird child.  Unhelped, I'm sure, by the reams of 60's reruns tainting my young brain (Get Smart, Gilligan's Island, Hogan's Heroes, Brady Bunch, Dragnet, Batman, F Troop, Gomer Pyle, Lost In Space, et effing cetera). 

I'm waiting, still, at age (just turned) 47 (too bad that when you reach this age-sphere, 'just turned' doesn't mean shit) for the big 'it' to land, square on my damned head. 

Hello?  It?  Where the hell are you?

I haven't lived a standard/typical life (married/kids), so I suppose I haven't had the thing that defines/occupies/dominates most people's lives, and therefore, free time.  Is that why?  Is this just an empty hole speaking?  Or am I really 'different' as I used to think, as a kid? 

But don't all kids think that?  That they're 'special' and 'unique'?  I think I actually believed it.

I was unique, in one way.  I never washed, never brushed my teeth or hair, developed a wicked case of scalp psoriasis, and both wet the bed and sucked my thumb until the age of nine.  A monkey child.  It's amazing I learned to freaking speak.

But anyway.

I've wanted this blog to be a snapshot of my thoughts and feelings on this crazyarse trip, and tonite I sit down on the eve of it, and this is what comes out.  Assinine gibberish, but then, some of these entries have been a bit too fact based.

I know ideally, I want to be able to look back on this blog thing and get a snapshot of what it felt like to be off for five solid weeks - and I haven't even left on the main trip yet! - because I might, of course, never be able to do such a thing again.  (For the record, I do recognize how lucky and privileged this makes me, and it has been awesome.) 

So, what does it feel like right now?

A bit surreal, and I suppose, scary.  Not to be on my own - I've never had a problem with that.  More like, wow ... what have I done?  Will I be made to pay for this?  Will I be sorry I dragged it out so much?  Scariest prospect of all:  will this thing overall perhaps prove a relatively empty, fleeting experience? 

If so, what then?

I guess I secretly would like it to result in the finding of some sort of 'deeper meaning', believe it or not.  A dramatic, life-dividing line would be nice.  (Can I order one of those up?)  I sound like I'm 12 right now, I know, embarrassingly looking for neat, tidy life answers out of a trip like this.  It ain't exactly roughing it in Guatemala with the Peace Corps.

*

Cue REM's Flowers of Guatemala from their 1986 album "Life's Rich Pageant".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGI0v1Ul7eo

*

Anyway, a gal can seek, and wish.  It ain't against the law.  Yes, she might never find the answer, or it might ultimately be found in her own back yard.  But christ, that would be boring.

So here's to urban, mostly solo exploration as a way to enlightenment.  Or something like that.  Wish me luck.







Sunday, April 22, 2012


Damn.  I leave a week today.

And tomorrow is one month since my last day of work.  A month!  Wow.  Absolutely nuts.  Never could have imagined it. 

Goes without saying that it's been totally lovely just hanging at the house, doing little errands and going for walks and having minimal responsibilities and no particular schedule.  All of it, effin' wonderful.  I unfortunately could totally get used to this in a big, fat way. 

As I've droned on about, I am struck over and over at the sad waste of time and our lives that 'work' is.  Again, not for medical folks, scientists, teachers, artists ... but for common insurance schmucks?  Ya.  Waste.  Everyone it seems to me should have a month off or two, minimum, a year, without any obligations.  Zero.  To recharge, to appreciate, to laze about, to refocus, to smell the fucking goddamn roses.  Because it really is true, goddamit, that we could be 'taken' at any point.  Squashed like a bug.  We live in a totally random universe.  We and are insignficant specks of matter.  The world does not give a rat's ass if you 'haven't done what you wanted to do' before your time's frigging up.  Just like that.

I guess I'm just a bit astonished and horrified that this is the way the world works.  That you give up the precious and the fleeting - day in, day out and day after day of your time - which inevitably becomes your priority because in many ways it has to be due to how we've set things up - and are left to try to build and attend to life only in your 'spare time'. 

Wow.  How did we manage to get it exactly fucking backwards ?

*

Apologies if I come off sounding smug/naive/preachy.  It's just that being off work and outside of work - and not spending the time looking for work, just yet - inevitably gives you a different perspective, and I guess I feel sad and a bit angry when I reflect that we've developed a system that values and elevates the wrong frigging things.









Tuesday, April 17, 2012


Well ... home, now. 

Never as fun as being away, of course, but it's less than two weeks before my big five week west coast crazy-swing.  Certainly hard to believe I'm actually doing this.  I keep having little paranoic feelings that something will pop up to put a stop to it all - broken leg, or the like, because it's pretty insane and therefore a touch ... surreal.

In the meantime, work is far, far from mind, and in fact I'm afraid I've become sort of enarmored with this 'retired'/'post work' lifestyle.  I still get up every day pretty much with the sunrise, but instead of my energies going into the slog of prepping for work, I stretch, suit up, and head out for a long morning walk, often taking my new best pal Mr Iphone with me.  I now see the world through Instagram eyes.  (Plus, the rays of the rising spring sun tends to make everything look like freaking poetry.)

How on earth will I get back to work?  It seems tragic to me now, as pontificated before, that we waste so much of our ever fleeting time on such endeavors.  Those of us who aren't doctors or teachers or scientists - in other words, us cog-wheels who don't do the type of work the world sort of actually needs for the betterment of humanity, etc  - must we really spend/waste our lives inside climate controlled offices doing the repetitive and the mundane?

Goddamn.


*

Drove back on Friday the 13th - damn long, damn tiring drive starting out 5:45am from 23 miles east of Toronto on the 401, taking a sharp right turn south over the Thousand Islands Bridges ...



... ($2.50 toll, US or Cdn), and down 81 to cross the border at ever-barren Watertown, New York ...



...  (less hassle history vs Buffalo), then a quick breakfast as always at Cracker Barrel (which was pushing Dolly Parton's new album like nutty.




Yes, in addition to playing her music - this place plays all country, all the time - they even had the above stand up ad thingy at each and every table.

We then continued south on 81 past signs for towns with names like Pierrepont Manor and Theresa, and my personal favorite, Pulaski, (because it always sounds to me like what this area feels like in January - icy cold and what I'd imagine Warsaw must be like) ... til you hit I-481 to circumvent glorious Syracuse and at last begin heading east on the Thruway (love that they opted not to spell out the word 'through' - were they trying for hip and 'with it'?  I wonder if this was considered controversial.)

*

A bit of oddness at the border this time - customs guys walking back and forth outside seemingly between the little customs booths making me think something was up - you almost never see them outside except when specifically rifling through somebody's trunk.  After some standard questioning - ("How do you guys know each other?"  "Penpals" - somehow, even in this massively digitial/online age, this has yet to stump them.)  (My theory is that the second we stray from this true answer, they'd leap - I have a suspicion/paranoia that they have a record of every/all prior border crossings/answers.)

The border is always a bit weird, actually.  The dread feeling begins when the little booths are in sight, and increase as you approach the window, praying this guy or gal is not especially bored today, or particularly pissy/power hungry.  All it takes is one hassling to generate that Pavlovian reaction.  Thankfully it's been a while. 

Our guy did indeed ask me to pop the trunk and snooped around briefly - very weird feeling to hear/see a stranger sticking his paws into your shit and you're supposed to sit there cool and calm.  I always tell myself to look and convey a sense of utter boredom - that it's all a terrific snore.  I figure, were I 'guilty' of anything, I'd be nervous - last thing I'd fucking be was bored.

*

So we drove all the way to Amherst, Mass., by way of always wonderful, always bustling Northampton, Mass., (aka 'Noho'). 




Which is about 13 miles north of the Mass Pike.  Ate, as always, at glorious Woodstar - bottled rootbeer and Nantucket sandwich:

Turkey, cheddar, cranberry sauce, granny smith apple, mayo, and dijon on organic country sourdough -  $6.78   


 (Though they did forget the spicy mustard this time ...)

*

In Amherst, we stayed at the Allen House Inn ...




... an absolutely gorgeous old BnB just up the road from the center of town, which is such a lovely little place.  Hard to believe it's population of 37,000 somehow absorbs UMass (27,000 students), Hampshire College (1500), and Amherst College (1750). 

For din, we ate at Judie's ...



http://www.judiesrestaurant.com/

Now in it's 35th year, which is damned good, has big, robust popovers, as well as the oftentimes rare dish/old favorite of mine:  angel hair with veggies ...



The place also has cool, locally made arty decor, and even that aqua boomerang pattern in the bathroom that I'd wished I could have used for my kitchen countertops ...



Had I not gone with white beadboard cabinets ... sigh.

*

After, we checked out Amherst Books ...















... which inexplicably, opens at every day at 6:30am (WTF??)

*

Next morning we drove up 91 for a brief stop in ever-pretty Keene, NH




then over to gorgeous little Peterborough and lunch at historic Peterborough Diner.




http://www.peterboroughdiner.com/index.html

Where they still have a picture of Obama with his arm around a diner employee behind the counter.  Such an awesome and totally genuine little place.  Dian had a nice thick chocolate 'frappe'.  Hee, I love that term - it's so New England.

Then afterwards, right out the door and just a few steps to truly fabulous, gasp-inspiring Toadstool Bookshop


Which don't look like much in the photo, but is a rarity in this day & age - a massive, vibrant and successful independent book store featuring both new and used.  Amazing place with a way cool vibe.

What I can never figure out is, how on earth does a town of only 6200 residents (2010 census) support such a huge bookstore?  And why does this formula not work/no longer work in bigger towns like Portland and Portsmouth, the former of which has approximately ten times the population, the latter more than twice?

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Oh ya, while in Peterborough, I inadvertently bought a new purse ...




After falling in love with the above pattern. 

Never underestimate the bewitching power of cute.


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Speaking of which, and I know this has nothing to do with 'travel' (other than time travel, as it's Downton Abbey) ... but is the below creature not the very picture and definition of loveliness ?



Oh, how the men dressed ... 

Oh, the power and allure of simple coloring ...










Thursday, April 12, 2012


Thanks, Canada.

It's been two weeks and I don't wanna leave. 

I've told Dian jokingly for years now that if I ever got laid off I'd spend months up here.  It really is irresistable having a 'hideaway'.  But ... two weeks has been fab, and I'm incredibly lucky to be able to do this at all.  Of course, now that it's the last day I'm wishing I had another week.  I guess being home, even without having to return to my job, just spells responsibility, and I'm really, really digging being free.

I've gone for longer and longer walks every day, even once all the way to the beach on Lake Ontario, which is several miles, visited some cool cemetaries ...




... the Scarborough  Bluffs:


and met some neighborhood dogs on the way.


Happened upon an old, oddly beautiful (to me) railroad bridge:

















and electrical transformer field:



But anyway ... thank you, Canada, as always.  And here's a video I made of wonderful Strombo's show from earlier this week, to prove just how awesomely awesome he actually is.  (Sounds down a bit - just turn up yer speakers ...)




Monday, April 9, 2012


Canada reflections n tidbits.

Being in Canada - a place I have been coming to from one to two to sometimes three times a year since April 1995 - is always a breath of fresh air.  I'm incognito here, without an identity, and have traditionally always hated the return trip back to insurance and landlord-land.  I just really dig and get an odd thrill by being able to disappear into another culture and "pass" for a while, as a non-American, and get away from American news and bullshit and politics, (which of course are oftentimes one and the same) all of which are surprisingly hard to escape, it turns out.

Media.
 
Growing up in the States, you don't, of course, realize how it is outside the States.  I had always naively assumed that other countries had their own media on par with the U.S., when in fact we really are globally overwhelming and overreaching in that department, as well as in others, to the point where Canada found it necessary, all the way back to 1971, to enact something called Canadian Content aka "CanCon", to ensure that Canadian tv and radio air a certain minimum percentage of content that's at least partly written, produced, presented, or otherwise contributed to by Canadians, with cultural and creative content of a Canadian nature.  I was surprised to see just now that at least a dozen other countries around the world have enacted similar laws.  Because otherwise, all, or practically all of the content ends up being American.  This is what a monster our media is. 

Oddly though, a certain percentage of the news here inevitably ends up containing American stories, anyway.  For example, they reported Santorum quitting the presidential race, and did a story on the White House's annual easter egg hunt.  And they will often report on the wars or things like Trayvon Martin.  Which is always mildly embarrassing to me because ... do we ever report on anything remotely Canadian?  Ever?  No.  We absolutely don't give a shit.  Were Americans even aware that the Canadian prime minister Steven Harper (do we even know his name??) twice did something called "proroguing parliament" in 2009/2010, ie he shut down the goverment which was about to give him a vote of no confidence?  Huge story there.  Pretty dramatic stuff, and not a word in our news about it.  Obama sneezes and it makes world headlines.  It's just so very odd to see it from the other side.

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One great thing about the media up here is the CBC - Canadian Broadcast Company, which is like their PBS/NPR in a way.   I've been seriously impressed many, many times especially by their "Doc Zone" and "Passionate Eye" documentary programs, by the commentary of a guy named Rex Murphy, and generally by The National - the nightly news program hosted by the fabulous and highly decorated Peter Mansbridge ...


... who I sort of have a crush on, and who is along the lines quality-wise of Peter Jennings, (who was, incidentally, also Canadian) in that he has a mile long resume, has won about every journalism award out there and is just such a class act and quality presenter/chief correspondent.   Fantastic stuff.

Another credit to this country and to the CBC whom I would nominate, along with Mansbridge, for Canadian national treasure, would be wonderful George Stroumboulopoulos, otherwise known as "Strombo":


Host of The Hour and now his titularly-named show.  This guy is twelve kinds of awesome.  He is so smart and such a consistently kickass interview, of everything from pop stars to Sarah Palin to prime ministers and heads of state and even, recently, one Ewan McGregor. 


He is just an unfailing pleasure to watch and listen to, a compelling political commentator, and a great interviewer, always only asking intelligent questions that these people don't normally get asked, and is just overall a hugely quality and class act, who, like Mansbridge, has won about every journalism award out there.  Interestingly, he came out of Canada's version of Mtv, and still hosts a rock radio show, but perhaps my favorite thing about him is that for unknown reasons, he opens every program with some version of this:  "How ya doing; welcome to the show.  I'm your boyfriend, George Stroumboulopoulos".  

Dang.

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Healthcare.

It's impossible to spend any time here without reflecting on the healthcare issue.  As Americans may have heard, everybody in Canada has automatic, free health insurance, and puhleez don't buy the propoganda about 'wait times' because everyone I've spoken with about this including captive strangers sharing an airport shuttle with no axe to grind say it's b.s.  And it's not like we don't 'wait' in the States at times for certain procedures.  And the older claimant who complained bitterly to me at work about "Obamacare" and how it's "socialized medicine" like they have in Canada, let me tell you, there is no one in this country who would trade our system for theirs.  They are in fact afraid up here of the occasional threatened for-profit privitization of even small parts of their system.  One of the most squirm-filled and mind blowing hours I have ever spent in front of a television was last year, watching a CSPAN call-in show with the head of the Canadian Medical Association (same as our AMA).  Jesus, the ignorance of the American callers, and wow, the total non issue that universal healthcare is for the people up here - it just completely blew my tiny brain.

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The sad and tragic and embarrassing part is, Canada has had this system in place since the 1940's - like most of Europe - it's as ingrained in their system as taxes are in anyone's, and with none of the controversy.  Check out this mortifying article from two weeks ago about Europe's bafflement over the recent Supreme Court hearing about the Affordable Care Act ("Obamacare").  Ugh: 

http://news.yahoo.com/europe-baffled-u-supreme-court-220944850.html

Bottom line:  it's almost undoubtedly too late for us now re universal healthcare.  Had we simply done it and gotten it out of the way in less corporately controlled times, we'd be all set, but we are far too deep in the hands of the insurers and pharmaceuticals, now.  Tragic.  Needless.

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On several lighter notes, did you know that in Canada, just to be nice, they grind down uneven sidewalks?


I saw this being done myself on a visit last year.  I was out on a walk and there were two men using a grinding/sanding machine, moving from sidewalk to sidewalk and street to street.  Imagine taking the time and spending the resources just to do that.  Damn. 

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Some other interesting things about this county are that they have black squirrels.



Okay, this isn't the best photo.  I took it yesterday morning on a walk about a mile from Dian's house.  The little critter jumped out of a tree and scampered along with a big nut in his mouth and stopped to look at me briefly from a long way off, hence, the fuzzy photo.

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Architecture.

Toronto has some truly lovely and hugely charming old downtown neighborhoods and some unique architectural styles, such as this steeply pitched roof style I don't think I've seen before:




Today we visited an area known as Bloor West Village.



A gorgeous old, walkable section of the city with more than 400 independent shops, sidewalk cafes, bakeries, etc., including the same green grocers and same butcher (still somehow with sawdust on the floor) that Dian's mother used to shop at back in the 50's.  Walking up the street, you can totally see how life was before the dawn of the supermarket.


And the streets running off Bloor contain some of my favorite residential architecture anywhere, with tight concentrations of 20s/30s brick bungalows with big chunky porches on the ridiculously perty tree-lined streets.




One of the coolest things in this neighborhood is the huge Chapters bookstore, which took over the old Runnymede Theatre, originally built as a Vaudeville venue in 1927.  Amazingly, they still even have the old film projector up in the balcony:



I took this picture in January. 

And here's a shot I took today from inside the front of the store, looking out onto Bloor:



This neighborhood is very pricy - average homes go for around $600k and up.  So interesting because it used to be run down and dumpy.  One thing I keep noticing when perusing the little freebie real estate mags on this trip (as I always do on vacation) is that the prices here are fairly high overall - I mean, even out in the burbs where Dian lives, and I think that's largely due to the fact that Canada's financial system is really strong and so didn't get sucked into the vortex a lot of the world did due to our real estate crisis/financial meltdown.  They are still in like 2005 here, price-wise.

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And finally, did you know that Canada is doing away with it's one cent coin, that it's ten dollar bills are purple?



And that it's 100 dollar bill is now made of plastic?



Dian's husband demonstrated for me by running faucet water over the bill.  They are now made of paper thin, flexible plastic, to last forever, I guess.